Volpetti

I know, feast or famine with the blog posts these days!  Nothing for a week, and then two in one day.  But, today I found heaven:  Volpetti, in Testaccio.  It is the most amazing deli I have ever seen.  The gentleman in the picture is, I believe, Claudio Volpetti himself.  He insisted we try every thing in the store -- at least five different salami, we stopped him after four cheeses, a surprisingly good dessert made from fresh ricotta and whole spelt grains.  Because what says dessert like spelt?  He was insistent and kind and patient with our English/Italian pidgeon, and I think I may have to go back there everyday of my life.

Next door is Piu Volpetti, a self-service tavolo caldo.  Think cafeteria, but with good food.  Quite the spread, no?

Jeremy and I have had some excellent Roma the last twenty four hours.  Yesterday afternoon, we did some hardcore clothes shopping -- not a ton of buying, but a lot of looking. We found a couple of streets in the centro with tons of tiny stores with beautiful, expensive clothes in them.  Also, we have discovered the secret to shopping in Rome is the timing.  You shop from six to eight in the evening.  Streets that look boring and shuttered suddenly open up into glittering jewel boxes filled with clothes, antiques, antique clothes (Romans seem to love vintage) and, as one would expect in a jewel box, jewels.   I am, horrifyingly, a large in Italian sizes.  But, what can I do?  Not eat when I'm in Italy?  As if!

Today we went through Testaccio and Aventino (I think we have now been up five of the seven hills).  I think, when I come back, I might want to stay in Testaccio next time. The market was hard core, and filled with everything -- food, clothing, kitchenwares, t-shirts, books.  It is near a lot more transportation options, and really close to a lot of the Roman ruins.

Tonight, the hunt for live music continues. . . Maybe I'll ask Jeremy to write a guest blog about the process!